Big Nanny's Aussie Adventure: Marla to Coober Pedy

Marla to Mathesons Bore – 114km

Mathesons Bore to Coober Pedy - 146km

In my last post I wrote that I had travelled 345km when in fact I should have written 505km. I also forgot to mention that I had crossed the border into South Australia. I feel like I am really getting closer to home now.

Tues 20th August.

I have absolutely no sense of direction, but didn’t bother to turn my GPS on when I pulled out of Marlo rest stop this morning because it was a straight run down the highway to Coober Pedy. I drove about 300 metres down the highway when the bitumen changed to gravel and I was confronted by a large sign “Oodnadatta Track” – all vehicles should be 4wd and carry shovel, winch, etc. Hmmm…….. a lesson learnt – set GPS before leaving each morning.

With 180 degree views of the horizon as you drive along and very few cars on the highway, there is a real sense of isolation as you travel in this part of the country. In the distance you can see the North/South rail line which runs more or less parallel to the highway, but apart from that there is just mile after mile of scrubby grassland for as far as the eye can see. The soil has also changed from the rich orange red colour to a paler orange.

I’m perplexed at the number of old burnt out car wrecks I have seen along the highway. In the 114km stretch I have travelled today I counted ten wrecks altogether. As the closest town is Coober Pedy I assume they have originated from there and maybe have been stolen or maybe just old cars people don’t want any more. Some of the cars didn’t appear to be that old, so I’m guessing that maybe they were taken for joy rides. I must remember to ask one of the locals when I reach Coober Pedy tomorrow.

I’m amazed at the number of cattle stations in the outback and how isolated they are. It intrigues me when I see a sign pointing to a station and I try to imagine the homestead and the family living there. One station I passed recently had a sign pointing to the homestead - 87 km in from the front gate. It’s so amazing how vast the distances are. I remember staying at my uncles dairy farm when I was a teenager and riding the horse about a kilometre up to the front gate every day to get the mail. I used to think that was such a long way.

Wed 21st August.

Reached Coober Pedy at lunch time and booked into Opal Inn Caravan Park. The scenery is amazing as you get closer to town. There are hundreds of small piles of white dirt everywhere with "Danger" signs dotted along both sides of the highway. Everywhere you look in the town there are rusty old bits of machinery and junk everywhere. The town looks very run down, not helped I suppose by the lack of water. It is a scarce commodity in this part of the country and there is not a blade of grass to be seen anywhere. Just dirt and stones and weeds plus some straggly trees. Most of the houses are run down but I notice a few new ones being built. There are a couple of country style supermarkets in the main street as well as a few restaurants and backpackers accommodation and lots of places selling opals. Together with emeralds, opals have always been my favourite gem, and some of the stones on display are absolutely stunning. I have always wanted an opal ring, but unfortunately the rings I have seen here in Coober Pedy are well out of my price range.

I asked one of the locals about all the burnt out cars, and apparently they are left there by the aborigines when they are too clapped out to drive any more. They drive them out along the highway, remove the tyres and anything of value then usually roll them over and set fire to them.

Thurs 22nd August.

I caught up with some washing this morning and then drove around town to see the sights. A lot of the attractions seem to cater for the overseas tourists so I was quite happy to just wander around and explore by myself. Walking around with Oscar I saw lots of interesting sights.

Marla Roadhouse - I camped around the back.